David Home Inspection Service A Professional Home Inspector Serving Los Angeles to San Bernardino
 
Radiation Radon And Your kitchen Counter Top. OK So you ask what's he talking about. We often complete radiation checks on granite counter tops in kitchens and food prep areas. For the most part reading are lower than one would find in most background radiation readings. However yesterday we took a reading on a granite counter top that was 15 times higher than I have ever seen in 12 years. Radon is "a cancer-causing natural radioactive gas that you can’t see, smell or taste. As the popularity of granite counter tops has grown in the last 15 years. The demand for low price granite has cause an influx of low quality slabs with highly dangerous leves of radioactive stone to tun up around the US. Read More Here... CBS News Countertop Health Threat.

Some professionals in the granite industry will tell you that the levels of radiation found in all granite surfaces are to low to be of any concern.

As a home inspector my job is to tell you what levels are present and let you decide what to do with the granite.

 

Granite emitting 10.3 millirem per hour of radiation
 
 
Asbestos Hazards In The Home
  • from 1930 - 1979 Some roofing and siding shingles were made of asbestos cement.
  • Houses built between 1930 and 1950 may have asbestos as insulation.
  • Asbestos may be present in textured paint and in patching compounds used on wall and ceiling joints. Their use was banned in 1977.
  • Artificial ashes and embers sold for use in gas-fired fireplaces may contain asbestos.
  • Older products such as stove-top pads may have some asbestos compounds.
  • Walls and floors around wood burning stoves may be protected with asbestos paper, millboard, or cement sheets.
  • Asbestos is found in some vinyl floor tiles and the backing on vinyl sheet flooring and adhesives.
  • Hot water and steam pipes in older houses may be coated with an asbestos material or covered with an asbestos blanket or tape.
  • Oil and coal furnaces and door gaskets may have asbestos insulation.
  • In the state of California asbestos was used most commonly for water heater and furnace vents.
  • From 1960 to 1978 duct work in attics was often covered with a white cardboard  like material  that had measurable levels of asbestos. This was often covered by a foil like material making identification difficult.

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    Uninsulated walls lose heat more quickly to the outdoors. This heat loss can causeDrafts across the floor,
    • Discomfort from loss of body heat to cold wall surfaces,
    • higher heating costs,
    • Condensation on the interior surfaces and ideal conditions for mold growth, mildew and decay, and
    • condensation within the wall cavity.
    Insulating the wall increases its thermal effectiveness. The insulation:

    • Reduces drafts caused by air leakage through the wall cavity;
    • Keeps the interior surface warmer so occupants can lower the thermostat, but still be comfortable;
    • Reduces movement of sound waves and dust so the house is quieter and cleaner; and
    • Reduces potential for condensation and related problems.
    Investing in wall insulation pays for itself with savings on the heating bill. Average payback is less than 5 to 10 years. Your actual period of payback will depend on factors such as lifestyle, home construction, and the cost of heating fuel.

    Materials

    There are several materials used to insulate the wall, with varying costs and effectiveness. Materials include cellulose, mineral fibers, and foam insulation. Some contractors also offer vapor barriers and vents as part of the installation.

    Cellulose is made from shredded newsprint, treated with fire retardants. Monitoring by industry and government assures the homeowner the material has a standard R-value, is non-toxic, and will not burn or cause corrosion of pipes or wires. Cellulose is particularly effective in wall installations because of its ability to fill and pack even in tiny nooks and crannies within the cavity. Cellulose is also very effective in reducing air infiltration through wall cavities.

    Mineral fibers such as fiberglass and rock wool are installed in some walls. Greater pressure is required to pack these materials into the cavity because they tend to catch on nails and hang up around tight places. In addition, larger drill holes are needed to install this type of material. Mineral fibers are most appropriate in homes or walls where moisture is a serious problem, because mineral fibers do eventually dry out. (Cellulose generally does not dry out once wet.)

    Foam insulation has been used in the past, but is not as widely used today. Although it offers higher R-values than either cellulose or mineral fibers, problems have been experienced with blown in foam. This includes expansion of the foam during installation causing bowing of walls, and shrinkage of the foam over time, causing gaps in the insulation.

    Installation could also include vapor barriers and vents. Almost all the moisture that creeps into the wall cavity arrives through holes and small cracks on the interior wall. Very little vapor passes through holes and small cracks on the interior wall. So a vapor barrier such as rated paints or visqueen is not necessary. Similarly, a vent plug on the exterior is not recommended.

    http://www.homeinspectionservices.org
     
     
    Staying on top of daily, monthly, and annual chores around your home is a big job. Maintenance and repair jobs are constants. Now add in the California Earth Quakes and after shocks. We offer a annual home earth quake safety inspection. We will create a detailed home earth quake safety check list. Our check List will be tailored to your home and help guide you to a safer and more secure home.

    Damage from earth quakes is not always visible. Foundation, gas piping chimneys and other building system are put under intense strain during even the smallest movements. Putting off inspections after an earth quake only prolongs the issues at hand. It's far less costly in the long run to have your property inspected now.

    To save time and money, plan ahead for the needs of your home.
     
     
    Rats in the attic of a Cypress home cause major damage. David of DHI Home Inspection arrived to inspect a home early on Monday and found that the homes attic was overrun with rodents. The smell was overwhelming said David. I have been an inspector for 11 years and I have never seen anything like it. The rats found their way into the attic by way of a phone line from the power pole at the rear of the home. The rats were able to feed on the many fruit trees in the yard. The damage to the attic was extensive. The insulation, wires as well as the air condition duct work were chewed away by as many as 80 to 100 rats. The ceilings were stained with rat urine. The home had sat vacant for two years due to foreclose . Another sign of the times. The good thing about all this says David is that this one is sold and is going to a new owner who will make the repairs!
    Story by Adam Rodes.
     
     
    We get asked a lot if we can certify a roof...
    From and Inspectors point of view" No".

    1. No home inspector does a wet test of the roof system.
    In a wet test the person conducting the test will use a water hose to impose a wet condition on the roof system. The hose is moved to all points of the roof while another person goes into the attic to look for leaks.

    2. Most manufacturer's of roofing products will tell you that a new roof can be void of warranty if it's walked on. Here in California this is especial true with our consistent high temperatures. If you walk on a roof in the blazing sun you are asking for problems. Some roof systems are made of clay or lightweight concrete. It is advised that these roofs only be walked on by qualified individuals. These roofs are more susceptible to physical damage when walked on.

    3. Home inspectors for the most part have at some point worked as a contractor or as a person in the construction industry. They have a lot of experience in multiple fields. However the majority of inspectors have never worked in the roofing industry.

    4. Should an inspector go on the roof? Yes if the conditions are right! An inspector should never go on the roof it it will cause damage to the roof system, or cause a safety hazard to the person conduction the inspection.

    5. When a roofing system has sufficient granular loss it is no longer a good roofing system.
    it may not leak but it is no longer protected from the sun. Dried out, curled, broken or missing roofing components are also reasons to note that the roof is past it's life span.

    6. A good inspector will not alarm the customer only explain the over all condition. Most inspectors will not elaborate on the expected life span as it opens up liability. Some may however say it appears to have 3 to 4 years left with proper maintenance.

    7. If you need a roof certification call a local licensed Roofing Contractor. They will be able to offer repairs if needed. They are the authority on roofing systems in your area. Make sure they are insured just in case something does go wrong.

    Keep in mind that a inspector is only at the property for 2 to 3 hours depending on the size and scope of the inspection. Not everything is going to be found every time. However a good inspection will use computer software with error guard to prevent missed inspection points.
     
     
    In general, the more tank insulation the better, since it reduces standby heat loss. Tanks are available with insulation ratings ranging from R-6 to R-24. It may be possible to add an extra insulating blanket or jacket on the outside of a poorly insulated tank to reduce heat loss. The most common type of water heater blanket is fiberglass insulation with a vinyl film on the outside. The insulation is wrapped around the tank and the ends are taped together. It is important that the blanket be the right size for the tank and not block air flow or cover safety and drainage valves, the controls, or block airflow through the exhaust vent, if any. In very humid locations, adding insulation to an already well-insulated tank may cause condensation problems, potentially causing rust, mold, or operational problems. Look here is the truth on this. If the manufacture recommends insulation or gives guidelines for installation, then it probably OK to add an approved insulating cover.

    As an Inspector I don't like the insulation blanket on hot water tanks. I always cringe when I see one. We will advise that it must be checked in accordance with the manufacture guidelines.
     
     
    In household and commercial usage, most water heaters in North America are of the tank type. Also called storage water heaters, these consist of a cylindrical tank in which water is kept continuously hot and ready for use. Typical sizes for household use range from 75 to 400 liters (20 to 100 U.S. gallons). These may use gas, electric, propane, solar and heating oil.energy Natural gas heaters are most popular in the US and most European countries, since the gas is often conveniently piped throughout cities and towns and currently is the cheapest to use. Compared to tank-less heaters, storage water heaters have the advantage of using energy (gas or electricity) at a relatively slow rate, storing the heat for later use. Larger tanks tend to provide hot water with less temperature fluctuation at moderate flow rates.

    Storage water heaters in the United States are typically vertical, cylindrical tanks, usually standing on the floor or on a platform raised a short distance above the floor. Storage water heater tanks in Spain are typically horizontal. In India, they are mainly vertical. In apartments they can be mounted in the ceiling space over laundry-utility rooms.

    With most water heater inspections you will find missing earthquake strapping. Vet flue in contact with combustible surfaces. Gas leaks around gas valves and fittings. Back drafting of CO gases. Rusted or leaking supply fittings. Missing TPI valve and down piping, just to name a few.
     
     
    Stand-alone appliances for instantaneously heating water for Domestic Hot Water are known in North America as tankless heaters, elsewhere as multi-point heaters, or old brand names such as, geysers or Ascots. A common arrangement where hot-water supply and space heating is employed is for the boiler to combine hot-water and space heating production into one small cased unit. The combination boiler or combi for short. A combi heats a hydronic heating system and when Domestic Hot Water is called for all the power of the boiler is diverted to only supplying Domestic Hot Water.

    Although instantaneous heaters can give a continuous supply of Domestic Hot Water the rate at which they can produce it is limited by the thermodynamics of heating water from the available fuel supplies.


    Many tankless hot water systems available today require special installation techniques. Venting, Gas and Electric systems are a lot differed than standard storage tank units. When Inspecting this type of unit it is important to have a copy of the installation guide on hand. If you don't have one you can usually find them online.
     
     
    Contrary to popular belief, the electric opener does not provide the actual lifting power to open and close a heavy garage door. Instead, the actual lifting power comes from the counterbalance springs that are under tension to lift the garage door via steel counterbalance cables.

    The electric opener itself consists of a power unit that contains the electric motor. The power unit attaches to a track. A trolley connected to an arm that attaches to the top of the garage door slides back and forth on the track, thus opening and closing the garage door. The trolley is guided along the track by a chain, belt, or screw that turns when the motor is operated. A red handle and rope are attached to the trolley to allow the garage door to be disconnected from the opener for manual operation or in case of emergency. Limit switches on the power unit control the distance the garage door opens and closes once the motor receives a signal from the remote control or wall push button to operate the door. Many safety devices are available and required to insure safe operation from day to day. It is imperative that you test the safety of the reverse switch and optic eyes during a home inspection.

    The entire assembly hangs above the garage door. This assembly should also be inspected for installation issues. The power unit hangs from the ceiling and is located towards the rear of the garage. The end of the track on the opposite end of the power unit attaches to a header bracket that is attached to the header wall above the garage door. The power head is usually supported by punched angle iron.