David Home Inspection Home Inspector Los Angles San Bernardino Rivierside Corona East Vale Rancho Cucamonga Chino Hills West Covina
 
In general, the more tank insulation the better, since it reduces standby heat loss. Tanks are available with insulation ratings ranging from R-6 to R-24. It may be possible to add an extra insulating blanket or jacket on the outside of a poorly insulated tank to reduce heat loss. The most common type of water heater blanket is fiberglass insulation with a vinyl film on the outside. The insulation is wrapped around the tank and the ends are taped together. It is important that the blanket be the right size for the tank and not block air flow or cover safety and drainage valves, the controls, or block airflow through the exhaust vent, if any. In very humid locations, adding insulation to an already well-insulated tank may cause condensation problems, potentially causing rust, mold, or operational problems. Look here is the truth on this. If the manufacture recommends insulation or gives guidelines for installation, then it probably OK to add an approved insulating cover.

As an Inspector I don't like the insulation blanket on hot water tanks. I always cringe when I see one. We will advise that it must be checked in accordance with the manufacture guidelines.
 
 
In household and commercial usage, most water heaters in North America are of the tank type. Also called storage water heaters, these consist of a cylindrical tank in which water is kept continuously hot and ready for use. Typical sizes for household use range from 75 to 400 liters (20 to 100 U.S. gallons). These may use gas, electric, propane, solar and heating oil.energy Natural gas heaters are most popular in the US and most European countries, since the gas is often conveniently piped throughout cities and towns and currently is the cheapest to use. Compared to tank-less heaters, storage water heaters have the advantage of using energy (gas or electricity) at a relatively slow rate, storing the heat for later use. Larger tanks tend to provide hot water with less temperature fluctuation at moderate flow rates.

Storage water heaters in the United States are typically vertical, cylindrical tanks, usually standing on the floor or on a platform raised a short distance above the floor. Storage water heater tanks in Spain are typically horizontal. In India, they are mainly vertical. In apartments they can be mounted in the ceiling space over laundry-utility rooms.

With most water heater inspections you will find missing earthquake strapping. Vet flue in contact with combustible surfaces. Gas leaks around gas valves and fittings. Back drafting of CO gases. Rusted or leaking supply fittings. Missing TPI valve and down piping, just to name a few.
 
 
Stand-alone appliances for instantaneously heating water for Domestic Hot Water are known in North America as tankless heaters, elsewhere as multi-point heaters, or old brand names such as, geysers or Ascots. A common arrangement where hot-water supply and space heating is employed is for the boiler to combine hot-water and space heating production into one small cased unit. The combination boiler or combi for short. A combi heats a hydronic heating system and when Domestic Hot Water is called for all the power of the boiler is diverted to only supplying Domestic Hot Water.

Although instantaneous heaters can give a continuous supply of Domestic Hot Water the rate at which they can produce it is limited by the thermodynamics of heating water from the available fuel supplies.


Many tankless hot water systems available today require special installation techniques. Venting, Gas and Electric systems are a lot differed than standard storage tank units. When Inspecting this type of unit it is important to have a copy of the installation guide on hand. If you don't have one you can usually find them online.
 
 
Contrary to popular belief, the electric opener does not provide the actual lifting power to open and close a heavy garage door. Instead, the actual lifting power comes from the counterbalance springs that are under tension to lift the garage door via steel counterbalance cables.

The electric opener itself consists of a power unit that contains the electric motor. The power unit attaches to a track. A trolley connected to an arm that attaches to the top of the garage door slides back and forth on the track, thus opening and closing the garage door. The trolley is guided along the track by a chain, belt, or screw that turns when the motor is operated. A red handle and rope are attached to the trolley to allow the garage door to be disconnected from the opener for manual operation or in case of emergency. Limit switches on the power unit control the distance the garage door opens and closes once the motor receives a signal from the remote control or wall push button to operate the door. Many safety devices are available and required to insure safe operation from day to day. It is imperative that you test the safety of the reverse switch and optic eyes during a home inspection.

The entire assembly hangs above the garage door. This assembly should also be inspected for installation issues. The power unit hangs from the ceiling and is located towards the rear of the garage. The end of the track on the opposite end of the power unit attaches to a header bracket that is attached to the header wall above the garage door. The power head is usually supported by punched angle iron.


 
 
Garage Door Guillotine. Near Death Experience

On a home inspection today we found a garage door with both pulley guide wires broken.

This is not a common find on home inspections. One cable sometimes but two? I was told by the neighbor that the door closed with such force it would have taken your head off. And it almost did. The day the door broke the homeowner was mowing his yard and was in and out of the garage many times and it only missed him by a minute.


We also found  the safety eye out of alignment. The door is an easy fix. And will not hold up the close of this fine home.


 
 
The next time you need a light call an electrician. Take a look at this picture.

Here is a make shift light set up in a garage work shop.

As you can see in the picture, the light socket is screwed to the bottom of a wood shelf. Not a smart move.

Kick the habit this year, do things right...





Picture
 
 
Picture
Do you Have The Right Key? Common Dead Blot Misstake One thing all Realtors hate is having the door locks re-keyed only to have them written up in a home inspection report for a life and safety issue. Here is a great illustration on what you want to see on the doors of any home you have listed.

The issue with dead blots that are keyed on both sides is that the key is never around when you need it. In case of fire it may impede the exit.
Hope This Helps.


David Home Inspection Services


626-629-8499


We Proudly Serve The Areas Of


San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California

 
 
Here are some key points to get good marks on your home inspection.

Exterior
  • Trim all vegetation 12 inches away from home or garage.
  • Keep earth 6 inches below/away from siding, foundation vents, stucco weep screed while maintaining a gentle slope away from the home.
  • Check and re-caulk any failed/missing caulking around exterior windows, doors and siding joints.

Roof Structure

  • Remove debris from roof left by trees.
  • Extend downspouts that drain above ground, 6 feet away from structure.
  • Clean gutters. (Even small amounts of debris can clog downspouts.)
  • Keep trees and branches trimmed 6 to 8 feet from roof and off power lines.
  • Chimney owners should have a chimney sweep. (Keep all maintenance records)

Crawl Space

  • Be sure no water or moisture is present.
  • All cellulose debris (loose wood, insulation, cardboard and other debris) large enough to be picked up by a standard garden rake should be removed.
  • All foundation vents to crawl space should be open and unobstructed for proper ventilation.
  • Check for any plumbing leaks. Repair as needed.

Attic

  • Be sure all bathroom and kitchen exhaust vents are still attached and lead to exterior of the home.
  • Keep insulation clear of soffit vents and can lights.
  • Check for leaks and repair as needed.
Furnace

  • All types of furnaces should be serviced on an annual basis.
    (Keep maintenance records.)
  • Change the filter and clean all vents.
  • Make sure the unit is responding to controls and heating as it should.
Air conditioner

  • Make sure the unit is responding to controls and cooling the way it should.
  • If not call for service. (Keep maintenance records)
Bathrooms

  • Correct slow-draining sinks and tubs.
  • Check and repair any failed caulk along tub/shower surrounds and at floor joint to reduce water intrusion and subsequent damage. 
  • Fill sink then drain. Checking for any leaks around the P-trap while draining.
 

David Home Inspection Services


626-629-8499


We Proudly Serve The Areas Of


San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California

 
 
Pre-listing home inspections. This is a service that should be offered as part of any successful listing presentation package.

  • a pre-inspection catches what the buyer may find during their own inspection so that the seller can repair and/or price the house accordingly from the outset
  • by making necessary repairs in advance, the seller can better manage the repairs on their own terms and there is no time constraint to having the job done; the seller can shop around for estimates
  • the pre-inspection report can be offered to potential buyers to provide disclosure and evidence of repairs and/or defects that a seller may choose not to repair
  • a report gives nervous buyers more confidence to submit an offer, especially if the home is older and competes with new construction
  • it is less likely that the buyer will "renegotiate" the offer after their own inspection because it is less likely they will find a surprise or a "new" deal breaker; the buyer will likely submit their highest offer at the outset
  • a pre-inspection can uncover a huge potential "deal breaker" like toxic mold, termite damage, code violations, etc.  If a buyer discovers this after submitting an offer they are more likely to back out, rather than adjust the price or ask for repairs
  • if the first buyer backs out due to a large defect, the seller stills has to make the repairs for the next buyer while the house remains on the market longer; possibly needing a further price reduction
  • making the repairs after the buyer discovers them does not "add value" after the fact, it only prolongs the sale process
I'm sure my colleagues can add more good reasons here....and maybe add any reason why this would not be a good idea?

David Home Inspection Services


626-629-8499


We Proudly Serve The Areas Of


San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California

 
 
There is always a question about what does an agent have to do regarding disclosing permit issues.  If you are in a market with older homes,  you can be pretty sure that there is much remodeling been done ..... much of it done WITHOUT a permit.   California and several other states have used their lobbying clout to get a law passed where the agent is not legally required to go off-site to investigate the status of permits.

Agents will argue that they have no responsibility anyway because they are not contractors; how would they know about permits.  If you believe that,  you are RIGHT and WRONG. Before,  I talk about why you might be liable,  let's discuss a little about permits.



Permits
A permit is simply the homeowner asking the governmental agency's permission to remodel or upgrade their home.  Most agencies charge a fee and this has become a very profitable profit center for them.  Once the work is done,  the homeowner (or contractor they hire),  is supposed to notify the agency so that they can inspect to see that the work is done properly.  This is typically called the sign-off or final inspection.

Transactions
:  In most states,  a seller must disclose material facts which would affect the buyers decision to buy.  Having permits and finals or not having them,  would be considered a material fact.  It is not uncommon for these permits to be given to the buyer or the agent or buyer picking them up at the governmental agency.

Potential problems:
  There are a few traps in this process for the Seller,  the agents and the Buyer:

  • No one is looking:  You may not be aware that most home inspectors exclude building code and permit issues from their inspections.  Go back and look at the fine print on your last inspection and I think you will be surprised by what you find.  It might also comment that their inspection was done within ASHI or some other association guidelines.  ASHI is the American Society of Home Inspectors and most states have a statewide association as well.  It would be the equivalent of our CRIA  http://www.creia.org/ organization.  Looking at the ASHI website,  I quote:  The home inspector is not required to determine compliance with regulatory requirements (codes, regulations, laws, ordinances, etc.) unquote.  Some go so far as to say that even if they see or suspect a discrepancies,  they do not mention it since they are not required to (key word) determine whether it is in compliance.  ASHI website: (http://www.homeinspector.org/standards/standards13.aspx),
  • Construction industry:  Contractors are notorious for doing a remodel and not getting permits.  First,  they don't want someone looking at their work in case it might be wrong.  Secondly, they normally don't get paid until the work is done.  So,  when the work is done and the city inspector hasn't come,  they still want to be paid.   So,  it is easier for them to skip the final inspection. The third reason is that they might have to wait days for the inspector to come. In the meantime,  they are standing around.  I know when I got my kitchen remodeled, we left the ceiling open to inspect the electrical and lights and the floor open to inspect the plumbing.  Too often homeowners are victimized by who do the work without permit or take out the initial permit and never get a final.  So,  just because your Seller hired a contractor doesn't mean they got a permit
  • What requires a permit?:  It depends.  Each city or county has different rules.  One might require a permit for a new roof while another does not. And,  things that were allowed in the past,  might not be allowed today.  So,  someone will have to determine what the rules are in your area.
  • Governmental Immunity:  One of the unpublished scandals is the fact that most homeowners are expecting that for the permit fee they paid,  the city inspector will catch all the mistakes made. WRONG!  In most states,  these inspectors have made so many mistakes in the past,  they have gotten laws past giving them governmental immunity on such matters.  Check in your area.  And, if that is the case,  your homeowners might want to hire an architect to oversee any remodeling work.
  • What's a Seller's agent to do?  The first step is to explain the issue to a Seller.  They might take the position that they don't know about permits issues.  But,  when you inspect the house,  it should be pretty easy to spot those issues that have been remodeled or upgrades since the original house.   As you inspect the house,  write down those items that look remodeled.  Then if the seller did the work,  they should check their paperwork and disclose it to the buyer.  On unknown remodeling,  the Seller could go to the city and get copies for the buyer.  Remember,  old houses don't  normally come with pools, huge decks, air conditioning or huge kitchens with vaulted ceilings, etc
  • What is a Buyer's agent to do:  Don't you just love Seller's agents who put together a beautiful flyers saying ....new roof, new kitchen, new bathrooms, new furnace and air, added-on master suite, etc, etc.  All of these items need a permit.  So,  if you showing a property,  note these issues and find out from the Seller's agent if they are or are not permitted.  Don't take the seller's word for it,  make them provide copies. 
  • Can you read a permit: But that raises another issue.  Can you or your buyer read a permit. Most cities use their own form and system and it is almost impossible for a non-contractor to read the forms.  If your buyer gets handed a pile of papers saying,  here are the permits ......have someone who is qualified read them.  Don't take the responsibility yourself.  You might ask your home inspector if they would use them during their inspection for an additional fee.
What are the ramifications?  So,  what are the ramifications of buying a property without permits.  It can be very painless or possibly very painful.  If the work was done correctly,  It might be as simple as calling the city to inspect and provide a final inspection. If codes have changed or the work was done incorrectly,  here are a couple of downsides including but not limited to; City making current homeowner fix the problem, city making them tearing the improvement out at their expense,  insurance not covering claims (fire,  slip and fall, etc) since the buyer knew the system (wiring, etc) was defective, and if illegal non-conforming,  The city will not allow the improvement to be put back.