As an Inspector I don't like the insulation blanket on hot water tanks. I always cringe when I see one. We will advise that it must be checked in accordance with the manufacture guidelines.
In general, the more tank insulation the better, since it reduces standby heat loss. Tanks are available with insulation ratings ranging from R-6 to R-24. It may be possible to add an extra insulating blanket or jacket on the outside of a poorly insulated tank to reduce heat loss. The most common type of water heater blanket is fiberglass insulation with a vinyl film on the outside. The insulation is wrapped around the tank and the ends are taped together. It is important that the blanket be the right size for the tank and not block air flow or cover safety and drainage valves, the controls, or block airflow through the exhaust vent, if any. In very humid locations, adding insulation to an already well-insulated tank may cause condensation problems, potentially causing rust, mold, or operational problems. Look here is the truth on this. If the manufacture recommends insulation or gives guidelines for installation, then it probably OK to add an approved insulating cover. As an Inspector I don't like the insulation blanket on hot water tanks. I always cringe when I see one. We will advise that it must be checked in accordance with the manufacture guidelines. Add Comment In household and commercial usage, most water heaters in North America are of the tank type. Also called storage water heaters, these consist of a cylindrical tank in which water is kept continuously hot and ready for use. Typical sizes for household use range from 75 to 400 liters (20 to 100 U.S. gallons). These may use gas, electric, propane, solar and heating oil.energy Natural gas heaters are most popular in the US and most European countries, since the gas is often conveniently piped throughout cities and towns and currently is the cheapest to use. Compared to tank-less heaters, storage water heaters have the advantage of using energy (gas or electricity) at a relatively slow rate, storing the heat for later use. Larger tanks tend to provide hot water with less temperature fluctuation at moderate flow rates. Storage water heaters in the United States are typically vertical, cylindrical tanks, usually standing on the floor or on a platform raised a short distance above the floor. Storage water heater tanks in Spain are typically horizontal. In India, they are mainly vertical. In apartments they can be mounted in the ceiling space over laundry-utility rooms. With most water heater inspections you will find missing earthquake strapping. Vet flue in contact with combustible surfaces. Gas leaks around gas valves and fittings. Back drafting of CO gases. Rusted or leaking supply fittings. Missing TPI valve and down piping, just to name a few. Stand-alone appliances for instantaneously heating water for Domestic Hot Water are known in North America as tankless heaters, elsewhere as multi-point heaters, or old brand names such as, geysers or Ascots. A common arrangement where hot-water supply and space heating is employed is for the boiler to combine hot-water and space heating production into one small cased unit. The combination boiler or combi for short. A combi heats a hydronic heating system and when Domestic Hot Water is called for all the power of the boiler is diverted to only supplying Domestic Hot Water. Although instantaneous heaters can give a continuous supply of Domestic Hot Water the rate at which they can produce it is limited by the thermodynamics of heating water from the available fuel supplies. Many tankless hot water systems available today require special installation techniques. Venting, Gas and Electric systems are a lot differed than standard storage tank units. When Inspecting this type of unit it is important to have a copy of the installation guide on hand. If you don't have one you can usually find them online. Contrary to popular belief, the electric opener does not provide the actual lifting power to open and close a heavy garage door. Instead, the actual lifting power comes from the counterbalance springs that are under tension to lift the garage door via steel counterbalance cables. The electric opener itself consists of a power unit that contains the electric motor. The power unit attaches to a track. A trolley connected to an arm that attaches to the top of the garage door slides back and forth on the track, thus opening and closing the garage door. The trolley is guided along the track by a chain, belt, or screw that turns when the motor is operated. A red handle and rope are attached to the trolley to allow the garage door to be disconnected from the opener for manual operation or in case of emergency. Limit switches on the power unit control the distance the garage door opens and closes once the motor receives a signal from the remote control or wall push button to operate the door. Many safety devices are available and required to insure safe operation from day to day. It is imperative that you test the safety of the reverse switch and optic eyes during a home inspection. The entire assembly hangs above the garage door. This assembly should also be inspected for installation issues. The power unit hangs from the ceiling and is located towards the rear of the garage. The end of the track on the opposite end of the power unit attaches to a header bracket that is attached to the header wall above the garage door. The power head is usually supported by punched angle iron. Garage Door Guillotine. Near Death Experience On a home inspection today we found a garage door with both pulley guide wires broken. This is not a common find on home inspections. One cable sometimes but two? I was told by the neighbor that the door closed with such force it would have taken your head off. And it almost did. The day the door broke the homeowner was mowing his yard and was in and out of the garage many times and it only missed him by a minute. We also found the safety eye out of alignment. The door is an easy fix. And will not hold up the close of this fine home. The next time you need a light call an electrician. Take a look at this picture. Here is a make shift light set up in a garage work shop. As you can see in the picture, the light socket is screwed to the bottom of a wood shelf. Not a smart move. Kick the habit this year, do things right... Do you Have The Right Key? Common Dead Blot Misstake One thing all Realtors hate is having the door locks re-keyed only to have them written up in a home inspection report for a life and safety issue. Here is a great illustration on what you want to see on the doors of any home you have listed. The issue with dead blots that are keyed on both sides is that the key is never around when you need it. In case of fire it may impede the exit. Hope This Helps. David Home Inspection Services 626-629-8499 We Proudly Serve The Areas Of San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California Here are some key points to get good marks on your home inspection. Exterior
David Home Inspection Services 626-629-8499 We Proudly Serve The Areas Of San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California Pre-listing home inspections. This is a service that should be offered as part of any successful listing presentation package.
David Home Inspection Services 626-629-8499 We Proudly Serve The Areas Of San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California There is always a question about what does an agent have to do regarding disclosing permit issues. If you are in a market with older homes, you can be pretty sure that there is much remodeling been done ..... much of it done WITHOUT a permit. California and several other states have used their lobbying clout to get a law passed where the agent is not legally required to go off-site to investigate the status of permits. Agents will argue that they have no responsibility anyway because they are not contractors; how would they know about permits. If you believe that, you are RIGHT and WRONG. Before, I talk about why you might be liable, let's discuss a little about permits. Permits: A permit is simply the homeowner asking the governmental agency's permission to remodel or upgrade their home. Most agencies charge a fee and this has become a very profitable profit center for them. Once the work is done, the homeowner (or contractor they hire), is supposed to notify the agency so that they can inspect to see that the work is done properly. This is typically called the sign-off or final inspection. Transactions: In most states, a seller must disclose material facts which would affect the buyers decision to buy. Having permits and finals or not having them, would be considered a material fact. It is not uncommon for these permits to be given to the buyer or the agent or buyer picking them up at the governmental agency. Potential problems: There are a few traps in this process for the Seller, the agents and the Buyer:
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