David Home Inspection Service A Professional Home Inspector Serving Los Angeles to San Bernardino
 
We get asked a lot if we can certify a roof...
From and Inspectors point of view" No".

1. No home inspector does a wet test of the roof system.
In a wet test the person conducting the test will use a water hose to impose a wet condition on the roof system. The hose is moved to all points of the roof while another person goes into the attic to look for leaks.

2. Most manufacturer's of roofing products will tell you that a new roof can be void of warranty if it's walked on. Here in California this is especial true with our consistent high temperatures. If you walk on a roof in the blazing sun you are asking for problems. Some roof systems are made of clay or lightweight concrete. It is advised that these roofs only be walked on by qualified individuals. These roofs are more susceptible to physical damage when walked on.

3. Home inspectors for the most part have at some point worked as a contractor or as a person in the construction industry. They have a lot of experience in multiple fields. However the majority of inspectors have never worked in the roofing industry.

4. Should an inspector go on the roof? Yes if the conditions are right! An inspector should never go on the roof it it will cause damage to the roof system, or cause a safety hazard to the person conduction the inspection.

5. When a roofing system has sufficient granular loss it is no longer a good roofing system.
it may not leak but it is no longer protected from the sun. Dried out, curled, broken or missing roofing components are also reasons to note that the roof is past it's life span.

6. A good inspector will not alarm the customer only explain the over all condition. Most inspectors will not elaborate on the expected life span as it opens up liability. Some may however say it appears to have 3 to 4 years left with proper maintenance.

7. If you need a roof certification call a local licensed Roofing Contractor. They will be able to offer repairs if needed. They are the authority on roofing systems in your area. Make sure they are insured just in case something does go wrong.

Keep in mind that a inspector is only at the property for 2 to 3 hours depending on the size and scope of the inspection. Not everything is going to be found every time. However a good inspection will use computer software with error guard to prevent missed inspection points.
 
 
In general, the more tank insulation the better, since it reduces standby heat loss. Tanks are available with insulation ratings ranging from R-6 to R-24. It may be possible to add an extra insulating blanket or jacket on the outside of a poorly insulated tank to reduce heat loss. The most common type of water heater blanket is fiberglass insulation with a vinyl film on the outside. The insulation is wrapped around the tank and the ends are taped together. It is important that the blanket be the right size for the tank and not block air flow or cover safety and drainage valves, the controls, or block airflow through the exhaust vent, if any. In very humid locations, adding insulation to an already well-insulated tank may cause condensation problems, potentially causing rust, mold, or operational problems. Look here is the truth on this. If the manufacture recommends insulation or gives guidelines for installation, then it probably OK to add an approved insulating cover.

As an Inspector I don't like the insulation blanket on hot water tanks. I always cringe when I see one. We will advise that it must be checked in accordance with the manufacture guidelines.
 
 
In household and commercial usage, most water heaters in North America are of the tank type. Also called storage water heaters, these consist of a cylindrical tank in which water is kept continuously hot and ready for use. Typical sizes for household use range from 75 to 400 liters (20 to 100 U.S. gallons). These may use gas, electric, propane, solar and heating oil.energy Natural gas heaters are most popular in the US and most European countries, since the gas is often conveniently piped throughout cities and towns and currently is the cheapest to use. Compared to tank-less heaters, storage water heaters have the advantage of using energy (gas or electricity) at a relatively slow rate, storing the heat for later use. Larger tanks tend to provide hot water with less temperature fluctuation at moderate flow rates.

Storage water heaters in the United States are typically vertical, cylindrical tanks, usually standing on the floor or on a platform raised a short distance above the floor. Storage water heater tanks in Spain are typically horizontal. In India, they are mainly vertical. In apartments they can be mounted in the ceiling space over laundry-utility rooms.

With most water heater inspections you will find missing earthquake strapping. Vet flue in contact with combustible surfaces. Gas leaks around gas valves and fittings. Back drafting of CO gases. Rusted or leaking supply fittings. Missing TPI valve and down piping, just to name a few.
 
 
Stand-alone appliances for instantaneously heating water for Domestic Hot Water are known in North America as tankless heaters, elsewhere as multi-point heaters, or old brand names such as, geysers or Ascots. A common arrangement where hot-water supply and space heating is employed is for the boiler to combine hot-water and space heating production into one small cased unit. The combination boiler or combi for short. A combi heats a hydronic heating system and when Domestic Hot Water is called for all the power of the boiler is diverted to only supplying Domestic Hot Water.

Although instantaneous heaters can give a continuous supply of Domestic Hot Water the rate at which they can produce it is limited by the thermodynamics of heating water from the available fuel supplies.


Many tankless hot water systems available today require special installation techniques. Venting, Gas and Electric systems are a lot differed than standard storage tank units. When Inspecting this type of unit it is important to have a copy of the installation guide on hand. If you don't have one you can usually find them online.
 
 
Contrary to popular belief, the electric opener does not provide the actual lifting power to open and close a heavy garage door. Instead, the actual lifting power comes from the counterbalance springs that are under tension to lift the garage door via steel counterbalance cables.

The electric opener itself consists of a power unit that contains the electric motor. The power unit attaches to a track. A trolley connected to an arm that attaches to the top of the garage door slides back and forth on the track, thus opening and closing the garage door. The trolley is guided along the track by a chain, belt, or screw that turns when the motor is operated. A red handle and rope are attached to the trolley to allow the garage door to be disconnected from the opener for manual operation or in case of emergency. Limit switches on the power unit control the distance the garage door opens and closes once the motor receives a signal from the remote control or wall push button to operate the door. Many safety devices are available and required to insure safe operation from day to day. It is imperative that you test the safety of the reverse switch and optic eyes during a home inspection.

The entire assembly hangs above the garage door. This assembly should also be inspected for installation issues. The power unit hangs from the ceiling and is located towards the rear of the garage. The end of the track on the opposite end of the power unit attaches to a header bracket that is attached to the header wall above the garage door. The power head is usually supported by punched angle iron.


 
 
Garage Door Guillotine. Near Death Experience

On a home inspection today we found a garage door with both pulley guide wires broken.

This is not a common find on home inspections. One cable sometimes but two? I was told by the neighbor that the door closed with such force it would have taken your head off. And it almost did. The day the door broke the homeowner was mowing his yard and was in and out of the garage many times and it only missed him by a minute.

We also found  the safety eye out of alignment. The door is an easy fix. And will not hold up the close of this fine home.

 
 
The next time you need a light call an electrician. Take a look at this picture.

Here is a make shift light set up in a garage work shop.

As you can see in the picture, the light socket is screwed to the bottom of a wood shelf. Not a smart move.

Kick the habit this year, do things right...





Picture
 
 
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Do you Have The Right Key? Common Dead Blot Misstake One thing all Realtors hate is having the door locks re-keyed only to have them written up in a home inspection report for a life and safety issue. Here is a great illustration on what you want to see on the doors of any home you have listed.

The issue with dead blots that are keyed on both sides is that the key is never around when you need it. In case of fire it may impede the exit.
Hope This Helps.

David Home Inspection Services

626-629-8499

We Proudly Serve The Areas Of


San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California
 
 
Here are some key points to get good marks on your home inspection.

Exterior
  • Trim all vegetation 12 inches away from home or garage.
  • Keep earth 6 inches below/away from siding, foundation vents, stucco weep screed while maintaining a gentle slope away from the home.
  • Check and re-caulk any failed/missing caulking around exterior windows, doors and siding joints.
Roof Structure
  • Remove debris from roof left by trees.
  • Extend downspouts that drain above ground, 6 feet away from structure.
  • Clean gutters. (Even small amounts of debris can clog downspouts.)
  • Keep trees and branches trimmed 6 to 8 feet from roof and off power lines.
  • Chimney owners should have a chimney sweep. (Keep all maintenance records)
Crawl Space
  • Be sure no water or moisture is present.
  • All cellulose debris (loose wood, insulation, cardboard and other debris) large enough to be picked up by a standard garden rake should be removed.
  • All foundation vents to crawl space should be open and unobstructed for proper ventilation.
  • Check for any plumbing leaks. Repair as needed.
Attic
  • Be sure all bathroom and kitchen exhaust vents are still attached and lead to exterior of the home.
  • Keep insulation clear of soffit vents and can lights.
  • Check for leaks and repair as needed.
Furnace
  • All types of furnaces should be serviced on an annual basis.
    (Keep maintenance records.)
  • Change the filter and clean all vents.
  • Make sure the unit is responding to controls and heating as it should.
Air conditioner
  • Make sure the unit is responding to controls and cooling the way it should.
  • If not call for service. (Keep maintenance records)
Bathrooms
  • Correct slow-draining sinks and tubs.
  • Check and repair any failed caulk along tub/shower surrounds and at floor joint to reduce water intrusion and subsequent damage. 
  • Fill sink then drain. Checking for any leaks around the P-trap while draining.
 

David Home Inspection Services

626-629-8499

We Proudly Serve The Areas Of


San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California
 
 
Pre-listing home inspections. This is a service that should be offered as part of any successful listing presentation package.

  • a pre-inspection catches what the buyer may find during their own inspection so that the seller can repair and/or price the house accordingly from the outset
  • by making necessary repairs in advance, the seller can better manage the repairs on their own terms and there is no time constraint to having the job done; the seller can shop around for estimates
  • the pre-inspection report can be offered to potential buyers to provide disclosure and evidence of repairs and/or defects that a seller may choose not to repair
  • a report gives nervous buyers more confidence to submit an offer, especially if the home is older and competes with new construction
  • it is less likely that the buyer will "renegotiate" the offer after their own inspection because it is less likely they will find a surprise or a "new" deal breaker; the buyer will likely submit their highest offer at the outset
  • a pre-inspection can uncover a huge potential "deal breaker" like toxic mold, termite damage, code violations, etc.  If a buyer discovers this after submitting an offer they are more likely to back out, rather than adjust the price or ask for repairs
  • if the first buyer backs out due to a large defect, the seller stills has to make the repairs for the next buyer while the house remains on the market longer; possibly needing a further price reduction
  • making the repairs after the buyer discovers them does not "add value" after the fact, it only prolongs the sale process
I'm sure my colleagues can add more good reasons here....and maybe add any reason why this would not be a good idea?

David Home Inspection Services

626-629-8499

We Proudly Serve The Areas Of


San Bernardino, Los Angeles, Orange, Riverside County California